A door that has to be shouldered shut isn't broken. It's usually out of adjustment — and that's a much cheaper fix than most people expect.
Doors are seasonal in this valley. A door that closed perfectly in October starts catching in February, then frees up again by May. That's the frame moving with humidity and temperature, not a defect, and the fix is adjustment rather than replacement.
We'd rather adjust than replace wherever it's honest to do so. Replacing a pre-hung interior door is roughly double the cost of getting the existing one swinging right again.
Flat rates from our published catalog, quoted in writing before any work starts. A $95 minimum service call applies per visit — bundling several tasks into one visit is always better value.
Prices assume normal access and sound existing conditions. Anything that needs eyes on it first — active leaks, rot, hidden damage — is quoted as preliminary until we’ve seen it.
Of everything in this category, door weatherstripping returns the most for the least. Boise winters push serious temperature differentials across an exterior door, and a failed sweep or compressed seal leaks heated air continuously for months.
The tell is simple and free to check: on a cold day, run the back of your hand around the closed door's perimeter. If you can feel moving air at the bottom corners, the sweep is done. Daylight visible around the frame from inside a dark room means the same thing.
October is the right month for this. It's also worth pairing with the rest of the winterization list rather than making it a separate visit.
Almost certainly not. Seasonal movement in the frame is normal here. We adjust the strike plate, hinges or latch so it operates through the full range rather than planing the door down — planing solves February and creates a gap in July.
Frame and jamb repair, yes, including reinforcing the strike area so it's stronger than it was. If the framing behind the jamb is damaged, that's a different job and we'll assess it on site before quoting.
We handle screens, hardware, weatherstripping and sashes that won't operate. Failed insulated glass units — the fogged or condensating double panes — go to a glass specialist, and we'll point you to one.